Ready to drop anchor and explore a quintessential Long Island destination? Well, I have the perfect place for you. This one will be short and sweet, just like the island itself.

Set between the North and South Forks, you will find the gem that is Shelter Island. This tiny island is accessed only by ferry from either Greenport on the North Fork or Sag Harbor on the South Fork. Only 27 square miles, Shelter is known for its natural beauty, and you can explore it by boat, hiking, or biking.

Although small in size, Shelter offers a wide range of hotels for island guests. Its central location between the forks allows easy access to the South Fork to explore the Hamptons or to the North Fork to explore Wine Country.

Entrance

The eastern end of Plum Island – Old Silas Rock.

We usually stay north of Great Gull, head for the eastern end of Plum Island, and leave Old Silas to starboard. You can go further inside the island, and there is good water, but I take the safer route and stay outside Silas. It’s a decent current, and if you plan to catch the flood, it is a great ride. You’ll see Gardiner’s Island to the south as you come through. From there, you can set up a direct course for Shelter. If you are headed to the closest harbor and right around Ram Island Point, it will be Coecles. Or continue around Shelter Island, past Sag Harbor and Mashomack Point, and you’ll hit West Neck. It is a beautiful ride!

Once around the back side of the island, we prefer Deering Harbor, on the north side across from Greenport. While we also like West Neck and Coecles, you are limited to what you can access from there. There is not much in the way of cabs and shared ride services on the island. Deering has a free town dock where you can walk around Shelter Island. You can also go into the town marina in Greenport on the other side and explore many places to eat there. I will explore Greenport in a follow-up post.

Anchorage-none in Deering.

Moorings – MARINA MAP LARGE (jwpiccozzi.com)
Shelter yacht club – siyc.com (if you are visiting from another yacht club)

Provisions

For your general provisioning purposes, there is an IGA on the island for your basic needs. You will find lovely produce and other cruising essentials there. If you want something special, check out Marie’s Eiffel Market. This gourmet shop has beautiful selections of bread, goods, and meals. Be aware that you will pay a bit higher here for your goods, but the quality is amazing, and I found that we were happy to pay premium prices for what we purchased. For any boat-related items, Piccozzi’s has a great hardware/marine store in Downtown Deering.

Food and Drink

Breakfast – Marie’s Eiffel Tower

Now I am going to go on and on about this place because it is outstanding. While the French prepare many of their dishes with a wide array of offerings, the food suits any palate. The pastries are the size of your head, and I’ll go on record here by saying that I probably had the best egg sandwich I have ever had. The egg itself was cooked to perfection, which quite frankly is not an easy task. It had just enough runny yolk that acted almost like an emulsified sauce. I am not sure what GF bread they have, but with every bite, I thought, …this cannot be gluten-free. It’s too good. I seriously compare other egg sandwiches when out and about to this one. The only contender, if you go back and look at the Mystic Port of Call, is the Engine Room. While enjoying your breakfast and a view of the harbor from the back deck, stock up on the frozen and fresh prepared foods. There is quite a selection. We went back to the boat with two small rotisserie chickens that were unlike any of the grocery store ones you see out and about. We dug into those back on the boat like animals. This establishment will definitely be on our must-stop list next summer. One caveat…as stated above, it is pricey, but remember the old adage, “you pay for what you get.” This certainly holds true here.

Lunch

We ate lunch on board (those rotisserie chickens!), but there are many options on the island for an afternoon bite.

Dinner

SALT

Do you want a great dinner? Just add SALT. Located in West Neck Harbor at the Island Boatyard, it is a casual and, as they say, come-as-you-are restaurant. They even have an outdoor bar area called the shipwreck. We took the dinghy over one night and got a spot on the outside patio. While we looked over the menu, we enjoyed live music and refreshing cocktails. We started with the shishito peppers with lemon aioli and the mussels prepared traditionally with white wine and butter. Although satisfied with the first course, I had to go big and get the Faroe Island Salmon with a shiso (a member of the mint family, also called Chinese basil) and garlic rice with a gochujang glaze. If that is not what you’re looking for, they have burgers, sushi, poke bowls, other main dishes, and the biggest fresh tuna sandwich we have ever seen! Check out their menu below for all of the options.

Isola

Are you craving some Italian? Look no further. Isola will hit every taste bud. Located on the north side of the island, just a short stroll from the town dock, Isola is a charming restaurant with a good array of choices. You will find what you are craving here. From handmade pastas in decadent sauces to brick oven pizzas, they do it all right. I decided to go with one of my favorite dishes, Bolognese. Here’s the thing. I am quite picky about Bolognese. I have been making Marcella Hazan’s (recipe can be found in the Galley section of the website) for more years than I can count, and I have ordered it whenever I see it on the menu. This one did not disappoint. Layered in flavor, you could taste the time and precision put into this dish. It is served with thick, freshly house-made pappardelle that allows the sauce to cling to every bite. You savor this with fresh bread while sitting outside on the front porch overlooking the town. It’s a wonderful experience you don’t want to miss.

From their website: “Our 135-seat restaurant features indoor and outdoor seating, a traditional bar, and a wood-fired, brick oven pizza kitchen overlooking the dining room. Guests may choose to dine in the lively main dining room, spacious bar, side patio, or street front on our scenic front porch overlooking the Historic Shelter Island Heights District.”

IGA Shelter Island (75 N Ferry Rd, Shelter Island, NY)
marieeiffelmarket.com
saltshelterisland.com
isolany.com

Harbor

After a 4-hour morning of motoring due to strong wind on the nose (gusts up to 25 knots), we have settled into one of our favorite places on South Fork. This is one of our favorite places, with plenty of room to throw your hook down, good holding ground, and access to surrounding towns by a quick taxi/Uber ride. Located in the town of East Hampton, Three Mile is picturesque and spacious.

Three Mile Harbor

Here is the interesting fact: Three Mile Harbor is not three miles long, nor is it three miles deep or any other nautical reference. It is called Three Mile Harbor because it is three miles from East Hampton, which we will explore in a little bit. The harbor itself is a protected area. It has many docking options, which you can access through Dockwa. We opted to throw our hook down in the southeast corner. There is plenty of water, and it is not overcrowded.

Entrance

Entry is fairly easy as it is well marked. The only thing to watch out for is trying to move out of the channel too early into the anchorage. It is shoal ground, and you will hit bottom. Take your time and use a watchful eye.

Anchorage

There are plenty of anchorage opportunities. The northern half is quite popular but not that accessible to the dinghy dock on the southern side. It all depends on how far you want to travel to access it. The holding ground is excellent. We were here during a storm (shocking!), and with high winds and rain, the anchor held up beautifully.

There are moorings available; just call the harbor master (CH 12), and they can accommodate you. We have only anchored, so I cannot speak to location and launch services, but I am sure there are many options.

Provisions

You have three options for provisions should you be running low on staples or want something special to cook onboard. There is a Stop & Shop and IGA, which will have just about everything you need from a chain grocery store. If you are looking for something more elevated, check out Citarella Gourmet Market. There you will find the finest cuts of meat and fresh seafood, sushi, and a wide array of other delicacies. They offer personal shopper service where you can pick up your orders in person or coordinate delivery. I personally like poking around the market, but be forewarned—you will leave with a lot more than you went in for due to their beautiful offerings.

Food and Drink

Here is where this one gets tricky because your options are limitless. East Hampton has tremendous eateries. It all depends on what you are craving and what won’t make your cruising budget cry. We tend to go on the conservative side when out for more than a weekend, so pick one lunch or dinner out. Since we had a sunny afternoon after all the rain, we chose to have lunch at the beach, but there are other great options.

Breakfast

At this anchorage, we opted to eat breakfast onboard. There were muffins and other breakfast snacks to be had. It was nice to just lay low and take the morning as it came. If you choose to have someone break an egg for you or you want to start your day with a full belly, I have heard that John Papas Cafe has a good selection, from savory to Belgian waffles. Goldberg’s Famous Bagels is also a staple in the area.
If you’re around for the weekend, many of the seaside resorts offer brunch. It’s all up to you and how you want to start your day. There are no wrong answers here!

Lunch – The Beach Hut on Main

The Beach Hut was just the respite we were looking for off the boat. A short ride from the harbor, we were seated on the patio, which gave us an amazing view of Long Beach and the rolling waves crashing to shore. The food was fantastic. I had the beach burger, which was cooked perfectly to my liking and topped with the usual accompaniments and Russian dressing. Others opted for the lobster rolls and the spicy ahi tuna poke bowls. I found the prices very reasonable. The burgers were around $15, which is hard to find at that price point these days. You have your pick of beverages from the cooler, which was well stocked with soft drinks and a variety of wines and beer. One note… this is not table service. You order inside and pick it up. I enjoyed the laid-back atmosphere. It really made it feel like a beach vacation.

Dinner – Serafina and Nick and Toni’s

With 13 locations scattered throughout NY, Serafina is doing Italian right. Located on Main Street in East Hampton, you can dine on everything from beautifully crafted dishes to pizza. If you want to have a quintessential East Hampton experience, check out Nick and Toni’s. I have not been yet, but it is on my bucket list for next year. The prices range on the higher side, but if you are on vacation or celebrating a special occasion, treat yourself!

Citarella
John Papas Cafe & Restaurant
Goldberg’s Bagel Cafe
Beach Hut on Main
Serafina Restaurant
Nick & Toni’s

Montauk, known as “The End” due to being the easternmost point of Long Island, is our starting point as we explore the Hamptons. It is always our first stop on our annual vacation cruise with friends. Located approximately 20 nm from our starting point in Watch Hill, it was an easy beam reach for us, for the most part with low effort, meaning I wasn’t bracing myself in the cockpit but could read a book for a bit.

Lake Montauk Inlet sits on the boundary of East Hampton but is considerably less elite and has a nice, relaxed vibe. You will pass the fishing fleet, as it is known for its fishing grounds in the area. Jimmy Buffett’s collection of boats is off to starboard, and it is sad to think he has been gone a year.

The harbor is huge, and there is plenty of room to anchor once inside. Be careful coming in, though. It is a narrow navigational channel, and if you miss the second channel marker and cut it, you will run aground if you draw more than 5 feet.

The holding ground is good. We used about 75 ft of chain because we were expecting possible high winds and wanted to ensure we didn’t drag. I woke up every few hours to check our position.

What to Do

• Montauk Point Lighthouse

• Shadmoor State Park

• Montauk Brewery

• Take a cruise

We saw several tour boats leaving the harbor upon entry. They go out to see the local sites but also to be on the lookout for whales and seals. From the excited jubilance we heard when they went by, this is a fantastic option for families.

Note: The town has limited dinghy access if you are on the hook. I would advise not using this stop for provisions and such. The restaurants can accommodate you, which is fantastic, but be prepared to be self-sufficient when here.

Food

I have to be fully transparent when I say that, due to the fact we were on an extended cruise with a few stops to make, we opted to do most of our meals onboard. We had the jambalaya. I have put the recipe up on The Galley page so you can try it yourself! We also had a taco feast with all the sides and a steak and chicken kebab night with Boursin-stuffed portobellos and corn on the cob, all hosted at the other boats. The rain was a constant deluge on this leg of the trip.

Breakfast – Montauk Bake Shoppe

Are you a patient person? If so, check this place out, but be prepared to stand in line.

Lunch – Cocktails at Gin Beach Cafe

We made this our first stop on land to have a quick libation before dinner. Due to the weather and early time (4 pm), we got a quick seat for six and took a look at what the cocktail options were. The ladies all decided to go for the Frisbee’s Frosé all day—rosé wine, vodka, and strawberry purée. The guys opted for some mudslides. Amazing!

Dinner – Inlet Seafood Restaurant

The Inlet… how I wish this gem was in my hometown, but I know if it was, I would miss the beautiful sunset it offers as an appetizer. While seated on the second floor with a stunning wall of windows with a view of the harbor, we started with the mussels cooked in a white wine broth that had a small bite of heat from red pepper flakes, cutting through the brininess with a perfect accent. The bowl was overflowing with plump mollusks, and we dove right in. The only problem we had with this dish was that we were both fighting over ownership of the broth, which we were scooping up with our reserved shells and slurping like we had never eaten before. It really was a battle of the brine. Fresh bread was offered on the side for my non-celiac partner, but it seriously was not missed by me. Content with the first course, we decided to tackle the sushi menu. There were several options from your traditional offerings of California rolls and spicy tuna to a wide array of specialty rolls, many of which featured tempura fillings that were very lightly battered. We got the yellowtail jalapeño sashimi, the blue crab claw California roll, and the octopus sushi roll.

Our friends went for other options. I have one dish for you here: the lobster fettuccine. It was a special and looked amazing, as well as the blackened tuna. All left full and happy!

We did alright sampling each other’s dishes, and it was only enhanced by the great conversation and relaxing atmosphere that we enjoyed after being on the boat for a while. If you are in the area, do not pass on this restaurant. The food, the staff, and the location are all tied together seamlessly to make for a beautiful night out. Please note, though, make a reservation. We got there at 5 pm and the place was comfortably full. Within a half-hour, I saw that there was a 1-1.5 hour wait for a table, and this was on a Monday. Plan accordingly.

There are certainly many others to explore, and I look forward to our next visit, but for now, it’s time to pull up that anchor and move on. The next stop is Three Mile Harbor. See you there!

Montauk Bake Shoppe

Gin Beach Cafe

Inlet Seafood Restaurant

Fishers Island (or Fishers, as locals call it) is a tiny hamlet located 2 miles off the coast of our home port in Noank, CT. With a small footprint of about 9 miles long and 1 mile wide, it is predominantly a private island with fewer than 300 full-time residents. Still, it has access to provisions and entertainment for food and cocktails for those who want to step off the boat and get their land legs under them. The anchorages off the island are protected and not overcrowded, making it the perfect place to regroup before heading to the next leg of our cruise this summer, which will be exploring Long Island. Ok, let’s get started. This will be short and sweet, just like the island itself!

Anchoring

There are two harbors on the north side of the island:

East Harbor: This is on the private side of the island and has amazing views of the Fishers Island Club, a Seth Raynor links golf course rated #9 in the United States by Golf Digest in 2022. It is very sheltered and has a beautiful beach that many locals enjoy. The most amazing sunrises and sunsets can be had from East Harbor. You can only go as far as the high tide line, but that is all you need to enjoy this fantastic harbor.

West Harbor: This is on the public side of the island and is much bigger than East Harbor. There is a lot more room to anchor, and rental moorings are available as well. Contact Fishers Island Yacht Club for moorings. Dinghy space is available at the yacht club if your yacht club reciprocates with the club, or at the gas dock.

Navigational Hazards

Both harbors have some minor hazards to keep an eye on. There are three sets of rocks called The Clumps that line the north side of the island. Water is clear on both sides, and they are well-marked. There is good water everywhere in the harbors.

Food

Breakfast/Lunch

If you take a quick morning walk around the island’s public side, you have a few options to grab a cup of coffee and a bite to eat:

The West End and The Food Art Cafe: Both of these establishments offer a wide array of breakfast items, both sweet and savory, as well as specialty salads and sandwiches. These are high-level treats done with perfection. They also have an extensive selection of coffee creations to choose from if you need that pick-me-up or are just sick of your boat coffee!

Dinner – The Pequot House

The Pequot Inn was established in 1901 and remains an island institution today. If you are hungry and don’t feel like cooking on the boat, this is the only establishment on the island for sit-down service. Their menu varies from burgers and brick oven pizza to larger meals. You can eat in the pub or have a nice day on the patio. I cannot give a personal recommendation on this establishment as when in the anchorage, we cook on the boat. It is always a quick overnight for us and not so much a cruising destination as it is so close to home. Interesting fact: This is the birthplace of Fishers Island Lemonade. If you haven’t tried it yet, check it out at your local package store and look up the story of how it came to fruition. Just one tip, be careful! This sweet elixir will have you hooked. It’s the perfect refreshment on a hot summer day.

Ice Cream

Topper’s Ice Cream Shoppe: This was always a big treat for my kids when visiting the island and after a race. Fantastic selection of ice cream!

Provisions

Village Market: Here is a great spot to stock up on some items before moving to your next stop. This small grocery store carries the essentials and prepared foods you can take to go and enjoy sitting in your cockpit. Note: Summer hours are 7:30 am – 5:00 pm, and they are closed on Sundays.

Ferry Service

If you have friends who would like to join you, they can take the Fishers Island Ferry from New London, CT.

Getting Around the Island

You are on foot for this one, but everything you need to reach is within a manageable distance.

foodartscafe.com

westendfi.com

filemonade.com

thepequot.com

Noank is a charming seaside village at the mouth of the Mystic River, spanning a mere 2.5 square miles. While small in size, this historic place packs a big punch, as it is loaded with beautiful homes, a plethora of eateries, and views of the sound you can enjoy as you gently stroll around exploring. It is not an overly populated area with visitors, so your time spent there will be a relaxing retreat after cruising through some of the more significant destinations.

Breakfast- Carson’s Store

Step back in time and enjoy your visit to this historical breakfast and lunch spot. With an aesthetic reminiscent of an old-time soda shop and luncheonette, you will be treated to fantastic food that will have you constantly coming back for more. Whenever my husband runs to “check on the boat” (which means going on it for 10 minutes and then talking to people on the dock for 60), he knows better than to ask me if I want Carson’s. Silly question. I look forward to my Irish Omelette like a kid looks forward to their birthday party. Eggs stuffed full of corned beef made fresh on the premises, potatoes, and Swiss cheese—enough for two to share (but I never do!). Instead, let them choose one of the many other breakfast options and grab a side of their home fries with the hash in them. If you get started late in the day and want to grab a sandwich instead, please do not pass on the Thanksgiving.

Do you want to check out Carson’s from the comfort of your own home? They were the setting in the Hallmark movie Sand Dollar Cove. Filmed in Noank and surrounding areas, this film will give you a good taste (see what I did there) of the home-spun charm of this village.

Lunch- Palmer’s Provisions

Grab a pie! Whether you are craving a traditional pizza with cheese or pepperoni, or my favorite, Philly cheesesteak, they have so many options to choose from. For the full description of this little gem, I am taking the words straight from them:

“Palmer’s Provisions and Pizza, located at 17 Pearl Street in Noank Village, is now open! We have pizza, a little market with fresh produce, snacks, stuff to grill, and a grab-and-go cooler with sandwiches, salads, and sides. Everything you might need for a quick lunch break, backyard BBQ, boat ride, or beach day! It also features a retail area with lots of great local gifts from Noank Nauticals. Stop in and see what we’re all about!”

Enough said! I am a huge fan, and you will be too.

Dinner – Fords Black and Blue

While you have a few options for seafood fare in the village where you can grab a lobster or a platter of fried clams, scallops, and such, I want to take it up a notch and highlight a fairly new establishment: Black and Blue. Located in what used to be the Seahorse on-site at Spicers Marina, Black and Blue has married land and sea with beautiful dishes of steak and pasta that will satisfy the carnivores among you. Start with the steak flatbread, please. Perfectly balanced with a fig spread, goat cheese, caramelized onions, and a smattering of other components to round it out. I know that sounds like a meal, but you have to press on and order a main dish. There are certainly many different ways you can go here. Again, the lobster risotto is out of this world, but right alongside it would have to be the lobster bisque bomb. If you are not a lobster fan (gasp), go for one of the land items. I will say the burgers will not disappoint, and the lamb chops we saw at a neighboring table looked fabulous. All in all, it has a beautiful atmosphere and fantastic food. Please give them a try and let me know what you think.

Special Note: Noank Oyster Aquaculture Co-Op

I don’t know what to say about this place, but WOW. Indulge and grab some of the best oysters you will ever have here and shuck away to your heart’s content. We just purchased about 130 of them for my son’s graduation party, and when I say it was the biggest hit of the day, I am not exaggerating. I could have served them and nothing else, and I would have had a happy crowd. Bright. Briny. Here is some information I pulled from their website:

“Harvested in the pristine waters of Mystic, CT, our oyster beds are located at the mouth of the Mystic River, where nutrient-rich waters mix with the oceanic waters of Fishers Island Sound and the Atlantic Ocean. Mystics are a 100% sustainable product. We have been producing some of the region’s highest quality oysters for decades. A pioneer in the “cultured” method of farming oysters, we are known for our revolutionary fusion of science and traditional oyster farming techniques that have shaped the oyster industry into what it is today.”

Navigating the River

Lodging

There is a wide array of accommodations to fit most price points. While Noank does not have its own lodging, Mystic, Groton, and Stonington can certainly accommodate you. If you are traveling during the high summer season, book early. Most hotels will be at full capacity.

Marinas and Moorings

If you are looking for a slip or mooring, call Noank Village Boatyard, Spicer’s, or Noank Shipyard.

The gas dock is at Noank Shipyard. You can pump out at Noank Village Boatyard or contact the pump-out boat on channel 68.

Navigating the River

There are two main channels to bring you into the Mystic River: the eastern route between Ram and Masons Island, and the western approach between Morgan Point and the western side of Ram Island. If you are heading into Spicer’s, you will use the channel on the western side of Mouse Island. It’s pretty straightforward.

carsonsnoankct.com

palmersprovisions.com

fordsblackandblue.com

Are you ready for a quick cruise down the beautiful Rhode Island coastline? Well pull up that anchor and let’s go! We will be eating our way through the ports of Narragansett, South Kingston, and Westerly while we take all the beautiful coastline activities. 

About South County

South County Rhode Island is a stretch of approximately 21 nautical miles which spans from Jamestown to Westerly. You can explore many charming towns all within a quick Uber ride from your place of anchorage or docking. While I have highlighted a few, check out Narragansett, Wickford, and Westerly.

Breakfast- Caf Bar

Location: South Kingston, RI


Caf Bar is a place you want to visit and grab a specialty coffee and a delicious bite to eat. 

Located close to our younger ones’ campus at URI, it was always a must to stop there. Its core is unique and classy, harkening back to another time. 

I always go for the Maple Bourbon Latte. It is built with a double espresso and a maple bourbon sauce (do I need to say more…they had me at bourbon). I would list their other specialties, but there are too many! Believe me when I say if there is a coffee drink you crave, you will find it there, just kicked up a notch or two. For breakfast, your choice is toast or bagels. Sounds limiting? Well, then, you have never had the ricotta and fig with blueberries, granola, and honey. I had to go for the GOAT. I feel a mix of words coming on here. Yes, it is a goat cheese, avocado, tomato, and quinoa masterpiece. I had it on gluten-free bread, which was available. It also could be the Greatest of All Time because the flavors mixed beautifully and were delicious! After graduation, I will have to find an excuse to return to the area so I can keep indulging. This beauty of an establishment also serves sandwiches, salads, and desserts if you roll out of bed to late to partake in AM selections. This establishment is a must-see. You will not be disappointed!

Lunch- Two Ten Oyster Bar and Grill

Location: Wakefield, RI


Ok, bear with me while I wax poetically about this place for a couple of reasons. One is that the menu is outstanding. Two, fantastic atmosphere. The incredible service makes the visit memorable, and if you are intolerant to gluten like this celiac girl, you can have gluten-free meals! (and a wide array of other choices). 

Okay, let’s start with the menu. Two Ten has a wide array of choices for you. You can stay with the incredible selection of seafood options or if you are not in the mood for the underwater variety, go for Bolognese, steak ciabatta, or the bistro panini. There is an option for everyone. We started with Sushi. I will always be a spicy California roll girl and it was delicious. We added a spicy tuna roll and then because the husband could not resist, the octopus sashimi. He was in heaven. You would think we were full, but we indeed pressed on. As stated above it had to be fried clams for me. They were tender and cooked to perfection. The hubby went for lobster grilled cheese. It was a chunk full of meat and a gentle blend of cheese that did not overpower. The combination was perfectly balanced and served on nicely buttered sourdough.

Dinner – Hoofs

Location: Pawcatuck, CT

(which literally sits steps from Westerly RI) 

Are you tired of all the seafood and want a great steak or a monster pork chop? Then you have to go to Hoofs. I would say that if you have something to celebrate or want to indulge in, this is the place to go. The atmosphere is warm and elegant. Dark wood has great lighting, but it does not feel stuffy. Start with a cocktail from their extensive martini menu. It will set the tone, and then enjoy it with the vongole oreganata. After quenching our appetites a bit, we decided to pass on one of the many insalata options and head straight to the main course. I cannot pass up a good filet mignon, and I am certainly glad I got this one. 8 oz of prime-cut beef cooked to perfection. I tried to make a dent in it, but a big portion came home with me. My favorite date went for the pork chop calabrese, and for a guy who can eat, he also had a take-home portion. It was a 16 oz chop! I have to say our dinner was very reminiscent of a chop house you would find in any great city. We left feeling cared for and carried a feeling of sophisticated indulgence with us all weekend.

www.cafbarri.com

www.twotenobg.com

www.hoofsrestaurant.com

Print: Heart of Newport.

Artist: Margaret McCrea (My talented mother-in-law!)


Newport has a special place in this Squall Girl’s heart. While I had sporadic visits in my younger years, I didn’t really get immersed in it until I met my husband. My in-laws lived there for many years, so frequent visits were made. When we bought our first boat, we were there on most weekends as it was just 15 nautical miles away and took us about three hours. This also holds a special place in my heart because it was where my love asked me to marry him and start this voyage together.


Newport, RI, is a seaside community on Aquidneck Island. It has an illustrious history dating back to the Gilded Age of mansions and yachting. You can read about the Breakers Mansion or how President John F. Kennedy and Jacqueline were married there. Present-day Newport is for everyone. With a charming, downtown community for exploring shops while taking in the view, short trips to the beaches and nearby Jamestown, RI, and the culinary scene which I will definitely be going on and on about in Ports of Call, as it really has something for everyone. As a cruiser, you have plenty of docking options. For more in-depth information on what to do, please visit www.discovernewport.com, but for now, here is my quick take…



Harbor entrance- You will not find any challenging obstacles entering Newport Harbor. The water depth ranges from 6-100 ft. The harbor is well-marked and easy to get around. There are numerous options for boat accommodations.




Anchoring is allowed in a small, designated area off of Ida Lewis YC. 

Moorings-Old Port Marine on Channel 68.

Slips-Newport Yachting Center is the most popular and located downtown.
Goat Island Marina also has slips.

Newport Yacht Club offers dockage and moorings for reciprocal yacht clubs.


All of the above are on DOCKWA and can be reserved online.



To explore the culinary beauty of this seaside town, I enlisted two pros who were hungry for the opportunity. Just kidding, it was my son and his girlfriend, who, as college students nearby, were just hungry! I set them off for the day armed with a list of my favorite establishments, a budget, and a gentle nod to the dishes I love and let them take it all in before graduation. I had one realization. If my son’s Marine Affairs career doesn’t take off, he has a future as a restaurant reviewer. Here is what they had to say….

Breakfast- Franklin Spa


The only correct way to fully enjoy a place like Newport is to make sure you fuel up in the morning, and Franklin Spa is a great way to start off. There are two ways to enjoy Franklin Spa: either sitting down in their comforting diner or taking your sandwich on the walk with you. If you’re keener on option one, you’ll want to get their renowned crow’s nest eggs Benedict, only delete  the perfect combination of hollandaise and corned beef you’ll ever taste. As for their sandwich situation, Franklin Spa offers some undeniably killer options. My favorite of all is the Azorean sandwich, which fill your cravings for chorizo and peppers like no other. In my opinion, Franklin Spa is one of those breakfast joints that you tell friends and family about.


Lunch- Diego’s


If you catch yourself hungry and wandering around downtown on an afternoon shopping spree, Diego’s is the surefire place to be. The most striking aspect of Diego’s is their atmosphere, where the dive bar meets pirate-punk rock. Great service and charismatic staff, so much so that you won’t want to leave! That being said, the tacos are what really kept me coming back. My personal go-to is the pan-seared, cod fish tacos, topped with pineapple slaw and house-made aioli, some of the best I’ve tried, hands down. The Ahi tuna poke tacos are a close second place; the fish is very fresh, which is always a plus! Don’t miss the chance to visit here if you have it.


Dinner- The Mooring

The Mooring is one of Newport’s poster girls of restaurants, and for good reason. If you’re looking to spend the extra dollar on something special, this is the spot. First and foremost, their famous “bag of donuts” is a must. I know it might sound unconventional but once you try them you won’t want to stop. If you have room for an entree after all that, a stellar option is the sole Milanese. Beautifully pan-fried topped sole with tomato confit and a lemon butter sauce? What’s not to like? You won’t leave this place hungry or dissatisfied.

If you need to walk off some of that food, take a stroll on the Cliff Walk. With stunning views of the water and fabulous homes, you will want your camera ready for this one! The distance is 3.5 miles one way.

cliffwalk.com


discovernewport.com


mooringrestaurant.com


diegosnewport.com

franklinspari.com

newportmansions.org

One of our favorite summer destinations is Block Island – a northeast jewel often referred to as the Bermuda of the north. Block (as it is referred to by those who frequent her regularly) is an Island around 15 miles off the coast of Rhode Island. It is a fairly small island running five miles or so in length, but boy, do they pack a lot into it. Day trippers can catch a ferry from New London, CT, or Point Judith, RI, or hop on a plane at the Westerly airport, and in under an hour, you can be basking in the sun at the main beach, taking a scenic walk, or enjoying one of the tremendous eateries. Since it has been a while since we navigated our way over, I asked our friends, Michael and Lisa, to be your tour guide as they can hop over with ease on their power boat instead of us trudging along under sail. So let’s get started!

This week’s Port of Call is submitted by our friends, Michael and Lisa Payne, on their travels to Block on their boat, Mrs Payne.

Payne’s Dock

Payne’s Dock has two places we like to visit when staying on our boat at the dock. “Lobster Craft,” which serves lunch and dinner, has seafood favorites to go or eat at one of their covered tables or at the bar. Food is always fresh and properly seasoned. We even get sandwiches made to go and bring them to eat at Coast Guard Beach. For breakfast, “The Cracked Mug” has an array of pastries, egg dishes, bacon, sausage, and an awesome smoothie bar, all custom-made. Coffee is self-serve, and there are usually several different flavors. Both places have walk-up counter service with very friendly staff.

For a view of the Great Salt Pond:

“The Oar,” a short walk from Payne’s Dock, has indoor and outdoor seating plus the bar. Lunch and dinner are served daily, including fresh sushi and many traditional New England dishes. And you have to have one of the mudslides with a rum floater. If the sun is out, there are a bunch of corn hole boards to use while enjoying a refreshment.

Another fun place, that is a short walk, is Dead Eye Dick’s, they start serving dinner on the early side, and we can usually get a few seats at the bar, or if not too busy, we can get a table on the deck overlooking the Southeast area of the Great Salt Pond. We always love their food, and the view is excellent.”

Paynes Dock

The Oar

Deadeye Dicks

The Atlantic

Ferry

Fly

Note:

• This is a predominantly seasonal destination. Please check for hours of operation before exploring. 

• Refer to your cruising guides before entering the harbor. There are numerous rental moorings available, but hard to get on weekends. Payne’s Dock, Champlin’s, and The Oar all have dock space. Great Salt Pond has a large area for anchoring but is deep near the entrance channel, and when the wind pipes up, the action in the mooring field can get quite entertaining with boats dragging. We carry 100 feet of chain and will use all of it in the deeper part of the harbor. A lot of boats will go further toward Dinghy Beach for shallower holding grounds.

• Go to The Oar and rent a bike for the day, well worth it!

• Some boaters will go around the backside to Old Harbor. It is where the ferries come in and where the bustling downtown action occurs. It is loud and lively. There are a small number of moorings that will sometimes have a dozen or so boats rafted to them. There are lots of great restaurants and bars within walking distance. Block Island has the largest collection of Victorian Inns on the eastern seaboard. One of our favorites is the Atlantic Inn where you can sit outside in Adirondack chairs on a hill.

If you are looking for me during the boating season, you might find me here. It is our summer home away from home. The first reason why, to be quite frank about it, is it is an easy getaway for us. A quick poke past Stonington Borough gets us to a beautiful seaside getaway. Watch Hill is a village in the town of Westerly, RI and has a quiet decadence about it that is special. You can get a fabulous dinner or take your kiddos on the flying horse carousel, which dates back to the late 1800s when a traveling circus left it behind. My traveling circus of friends likes to take advantage of our favorite places when we need nourishment after a hard day of basking in the sun. Check out our favorites….

Where to eat

Breakfast- The Cooked Goose

While this is not in downtown Watch Hill, it is worth the short travel to get there. I have chosen it for breakfast because the Lobster Eggs Benedict is something I could eat every weekend and be perfectly content with. They also offer other breakfast items ranging from pancakes to truffled eggs. Lunch is also available, but there are too many options to mention here. Do you want to grab something to go? They have a wide array of prepared meals you can take with you to enjoy on the boat, at the beach, or in your own home.

Lunch- Ten Sandwiches

Ten Sandwiches sounds like a small takeout joint, right? While they do highlight ten amazing sandwich combinations, they also have dinner options and a very nice cocktail selection. My go-to lunch is # 6: the roasted herb chicken with avocado, bacon, and chipotle mayo. What else could you ask for? Please stop by and try it out yourself. You will not be disappointed!

Dinner- Olympia Tea Room

Hands down, I had one of my favorite meals here on our last visit. I even tried to recreate it at home but could not come close. It was the Lime Chipotle Shrimp with Julienne Vegetables and Saffron Rice. Everyone in our group loved their selections as well, and the meal was topped off with wonderful service and atmosphere.

www.thecookedgoose.com
www.tensandwiches.com
www.Olympiatearoom.com
www.merrygoroundbeach.com

Note:

• This is a predominantly seasonal destination. Please check for hours of operation before exploring.
• Refer to your cruising guides before entering the harbor. The entrance channel is dependent on the tide and if you are a sailboat pay close attention to the channel as it tends to shoal.
• Amazing anchorage and holding ground off of Napatree Beach. Dinghy in and walk over the dunes to the ocean side for great waves. Moorings are also available for rent from Watch Hill Yacht Club.

If you have never heard of this sweet gem, then you must check it out now! It is tucked away in the town of Stonington, CT, and is home to the last commercial fishing fleet in Connecticut and pays homage to those who have died at sea. For having such a small footprint, the Borough (as the locals call it) packs a lot of punch for those travelers who want to day trip it, bring their boat in, or stay at a luxury waterfront Inn. If you want to look at it on the big screen, the movie Great Hope Springs and many parts of Mystic Pizza were filmed there. While I would love to eat my way through this town to share it with you, the Stonington Borough Merchants Association has graciously allowed me to share their site for this post. They have done a fabulous job of highlighting all the hits. Here are a few mentions of my favorites, but please peruse their site for an in-depth look.

Breakfast- Noah’s

You will see that I am a savory breakfast girl, so the avocado toast with a perfectly cooked egg is where I land here, but they are known for their pancakes! Try them and let me know what you think.

Lunch- Dog Watch Cafe

We always seem to get the same thing when we go, but the whole menu is fantastic. My favorite sandwich is grilled chicken with avocado and chili mayo. Hubby goes for either the Ahi tuna plate or the flat iron steak open-faced sandwich, which they top with onion rings to go with your french fries side.

Dinner- Breakwater

This establishment is owned by the same group as Go Fish. They know to put the secret sauce into the dining experience. You can go by boat and tie up to their generous dock. Sit outside for a beautiful sunset and treat yourself to the Portuguese monkfish stew! They also have smaller plates and classic coastal cuisine and sandwiches. You really can’t go wrong with anything, and it is a big plus. They are gluten-free and vegetarian-friendly!

*** If you want to make your own seafood feast, please visit Seawell Self-Serve fish Market for Bombster Scallops and the many local fishing vessels like LADY LYNN (below) at Stonington Fresh. You will not have anything fresher or better!

stoningtonboroughct.com

stoningtonfresh.com/grimshaw (LADY LYNN)

facebook.com/seawellseafood

My first port of call is a stop in Mystic, CT. Mystic is a historic coastal town in southeastern CT. Mystic was a significant Connecticut seaport with more than 600 ships built over 135 years starting in 1784. There are many dining experiences and things to do!

Located on the coast in Southeastern New England, Mystic has a storied past in maritime history and has been a top tourist destination for ages. It is located 2 1/2 hours from New York City and Boston, Massachusetts and has something for everyone. Are you a history buff? Go explore the Mystic Seaport. Want to visit the beluga whales? The Mystic Aquarium is there and waiting for you. Hungry after all that exploring? I cannot even explain – with justice – the culinary scene in this charming town from simple New England fare to meals created by a James Beard–nominated chefs to desserts from a Food Network 2017 Spring Baking finalist. Now do you need to work off all that food? Take a stroll through scenic downtown and explore the eclectic stores or take a ride over to the Olde Mistick Village for more shopping (and eating if you have room for it!)

Here are some of my favorites…

Breakfast ~

For a quick, but decadent, breakfast visit Sift Bakery or Young Buns Donuts. Both of these establishments are the creation of Adam Young. At Sift, you will have a selection of breakfast pastries from sweet and savory croissants to quiches. Young Buns (Sift’s sister eatery) offers a wide array of daily–made donuts.

If you’re off the water a little later than expected, you’re looking for brunch. Sunday brunch is a must at The Engine Room. The specialty cocktail list goes beyond your traditional bloodys and mimosas (although I got the Bloody Mary and it was fantastic and perfectly balanced). While my better half went for his favorite of chicken and waffles, I believe that my dish hit it out of the park. You have to get The Engine Room Eggs Benedict. My photo does not do it justice. A thick slice of bbq brisket that is topped with perfectly poached eggs and a cilantro hollandaise.

Lunch ~

There are not many things I crave but a great burger is in my top three. That being said, I am extremely picky about my burger. You have to grab some wings and a burger at Friar Tucks Tavern.

I always go for the Swiss, mushroom burger but the overall consensus, in my family, is that the Friar Tuck burger is the way to go. Layer a perfect blend of meat, add bacon, fried onion straws, and a stout beer cheese and what else can you ask for? Oh, I guess the wings! Let me just say, these are not your scrawny wings you get out in most places. They are a meal on their own. Friar Tuck’s is also is pup friendly on the outside patio when in season.

Dinner ~

If you want fantastic sushi you have to Go Fish! I am not talking about the card game but the restaurant which features dishes inspired by the Pacific Rim. I could eat there a few times a week and still think about it on the off days. Let’s start this love fest with the miso soup. The deep umami flavor of the miso and mushrooms is out of this world. Once you are comforted by that warm bath of flavor please order the Sansei Roll. It is my favorite. It is spicy crab with a Thai Chili sauce. Add the spicy tuna roll, the Alaska roll and don’t leave without the Bang Bang Shrimp.